Saturday morning I got up early and headed off to the main bus depot to catch an express bus to Pundicherri, about 60 miles south of here. The bus ride cost $1.25 and took 2 ½ hours. I sat behind the driver with lots of leg room, sharing my seat with two other Indian women who cast secret glances at me when they thought I wasn’t looking. The ride was straight down ECR (East Coast Road)and as we passed through the southern “suburbs” of the city we hit open space with palm trees and simple houses made of fronds and mud. We passed rice paddies all set to go, but dry as a bone. Crossing rivers I was men poling boats as they cast and pulled in their nets. There was a cool breeze coming in the window, and it was a comfortable and pleasant ride. No matter how small the collection of houses was there was always a temple prominently placed.

We pulled into Pundicherry and I was surprised at how large a city it was. There were many dealers in antique furniture on the outskirts, and I longed for a car to go and browse there. As soon as I stepped off there was a young man to offer his services of an autorickshaw to take me to my hotel. I stepped inside and was transported out of the hustle and bustle into the French Quarter, free of trash and with orderly streets—there were even signs that requested “No horns”. Remarkable. I crossed through the gated entrance to the Park Guest House, run by Auroville, where I was sternly told to read the agreement, which said “no tobacco, no alcohol” before they would register me. No problem there. They lock the gate at 10:30. I was shown to my room—two twin beds , a desk, table, chair, ceiling fan and balcony overlooking the Ocean and The Garden of Positive Vibrations. Indescribable beauty. I took a quick shower and headed out along the Promanade. Passing the Tourism office I got a map and the young man Anthony, showed me things I would want to be sure to see. The city is an old French settlement, and it left the beauty of France behind. Everything was painted in beautiful colors, and it did indeed feel like a mini-Nice. There was a large monument to Ghandi in the middle of the walk along the shore, and I turned left into the town.

I visited a museum for 5 cents and saw stone carvings and beads and vessels gathered near-by at Arikamedu. The history dates back to the 2^nd century B.C. It was used a port for trade with the Romans and Greco –Romans. Wine, garum sauce and olive oil were imported and the exports must have included textile, beads, semiprecious gems, glass and shell bangles. The only thing there now are perpendicular walls and a mission house. On to the Tamil Nadu section of town, more honking, lots of street vendors of incredible wares. I had only brought about 15 dollars with me, and so was freed from the idea of shopping, and could honestly answer that I had no money—just enough to buy my two sisters a gift, which I will enjoy until I send them off. I was looking into a small temple in the main square when I was beaconed to enter by 2 laughing women. The puja fired up the incense and blessed me and gave me the red dot on my forehead (Is it made of crushed flowers?) and mint and sugar crystals to eat and a ladle of water to drink. He took a large bell and covered my head with it as he uttered prayers. I went to put some rupees in the plate but was waved away. A first. The women pinned a jasmine garland into my hair, gave me kisses and laughing watched me as I put my shoes back on to leave. Everywhere I went I was greeted with “Hello, Madame. What is your good name?” and each of them would introduce themselves to me as I shook their hand. Lovely.

I leisurely strolled the streets back to the Guesthouse where I collected my bathing suit and headed beyond the Promanade to swim—yes! In my suit! I was floating on my back for an unknown amount of time when I heard the familiar, “Hello, Madame!” A young boy was treading water next to me. Indians are not known to be good swimmers, and women rarely if ever swim. “Well, hello,” I answered. We ex- changed names, but skipped the hand shake, and the two of us swam for a long while, gradually heading in body surfing on the waves. One wave grabbed me and tumbled me violently about, like a rag doll by Winnie. I felt the boys body crash into mine and we were tossed upon the shore laughing and gasping. “You are so super to me, Madame,” he said as we parted. What does it take? Recognition only. I went back and spent the afternoon reading Eckard Tolle in the Garden of Positive Vibrations. It has left me in a quandary—what to do without an ego. I am finding myself passionate about teaching here, and yes, that does seem to have an element of my ego involved. I don’t think that is the driving force, but I am still watching and questioning. I will take him along next week when I return. I think he must have written the book in this garden. Carol Adleman would be quite at home with the beautiful use of flower, water and rock.

On my way to dinner, I stopped at a Tibetan store, took my sandels off and entered a little room about 10 x 12. It was full of beautiful Buddhas, and hindi gods, jewelry. I had trouble focusing on anything, and sat down. Kameer spoke softly to me, asking me what I was doing there, and how I found it.
I explained that I had no money. He took out a prayer bowl made of 7 metals, for the 7 chakras in the body. He took a large round paddle covered with red material and slowly ran it around the rim of the bowl. Like fine crystal glassware it started to sing. The absolutely most beautiful perfect sound came out and filled the room. He took a purple velvet pillow and rested it on my head and did the same. I could feel the vibrations in my feet. I bent over and rested my hands on the chair and he placed the bowl on my lower back and gonged it—my neck, and then I stood in the bowl as he gonged it vigorously—I could feel the vibration in my teeth. I was spellbound. Such a gentle loving man with no ulterior motive, other than healing and love. I thought of my friend Kathy, and sent these vibrations across the universe to her. This practice is used for healing—to align the centers of energy in the body.I look forward to returning to his shop. A life changing experience.

I ate a meal of vegetable curry and garlic naan with fresh lime juice for dinner on the roof of a restaurant overlooking the sea. Entranced by the events of the day, and totally satisfied and happy.

The sound of the surf was rhythmic and constant all night as I slept under the ceiling fan. In the morning I swam again, and magically there was my young friend. He and I swam to the laughter of others and drew a crowd. The people were very concerned about me being in the sun. I told them I wanted to be as dark as they were, and they laughed some more. I had collected a few shells, and so they appeared in a large pile on my cloth. The boys wanted to take me for a boat ride, but I declined. The boats there are merely large timbers lashed together which they pole along—maybe next time.

I sat in the garden before I left for the Botanical Garden—preserved since 1856. I sat down on a granite bench and as I sat silently I realized that there 100s of large fruit bats everywhere hanging from the trees. Why do they hang upside down? I laughed aloud.

Walking with my bags I tripped and fell—in fact it felt as though I flew, and my bags spilled out in front of me. A huge group of people rushed to me with concern, collecting my things for me and helping me up. I feel as though the Indian people are caring for me, watching over me as though a child. I took the afternoon bus home—again a pleasant experience. I was surprised at how exhausted I was when I returned. I have a series of little red dots scattered on my body—bed bugs I think.

I already paid to stay there again next Friday to have 2 days there. I plan to go to Auroville for a day. Check out their web site. Aurowille was envisioned as a Universal Town, where people from different nationalities, faiths and beliefs can live in peace and harmony. It is an attempt to realize the new society as envisioned by Sri Aurobindo and the Mother, a French artist who was his disciple. Nearly 2000 people from 35 countries are living here to realize human unity and transformation of consciousness. Sri Aurobindo was a revolutionary who turned poet and teacher. His spirit feels very present at the guest house and his teachings are pure love and acceptance.